In Europe, a personal greeting and careening through Charles de Gaulle
airport made for the most dramatic welcome I've ever received. Mireille
of Air France held my name high on a sign. "Allons-y", she invited.
Whisked through the terminal, to the front of security lines and through
the airport at high speed on whichever side of the road necessary, I
walked onto the plane as its door closed for taxi and take off to Rome.
Day 1
Rome was the first big city I ever experienced. Its rush, its crush, its
smells and its beggars gave it all to me in one day. That first time, in
1979, I learned to use a city map in Rome to find sights missing on my
high school tour group's itinerary. This time, I wanted to recall that
sense of discovery, and I got the déjà vu I wanted.
Unable to stay put in my clean, closet-sized room near Roma Termini, I
took off on foot and found myself with the tourist mob and amorous
teenagers by the Trevi Fountain. Retracing the steps I took in 1979 from
that wall of water and rearing horses to the Pantheon and the Piazza
Navona, a delightfully strange incident happened.
An old man called after me. He even ran to catch me. His name was Claudio
and he spoke French. He told me he wanted to show me Chiesa della Francese
- Church of the French, where beautiful paintings by Caravaggio hang. Most
interestingly, he told me about being a "letters man". He works for the
Vatican and when they discover marble with letters on it, he is the one
who translates and interprets them. He suggested I come to Rome for just
15 days, take intensive Italian and I'd be able to speak it very well.
Sounds great!! He was sharing his City - he is Romano.
At Piazza Navona, entranced by a glass of heady complex Amarone ($6 - I
didn't get the cheapest, but I got the bargain!), I remembered the night I
tripped over a big dog here in the dark. It and the owner snarled loudly,
really scaring me. Looking at the statue of Neptune thrusting his triton
into an octopus - suddenly I realized it's the image on the post card I
framed long ago now hanging in my bedroom. My taste hasn't changed over
the years, just grown. Almost fell over, asleep, when they turned on the
outdoor heater behind me. I roused myself to go find the famous Death By
Chocolate ice cream ball coated in chocolate (77% cocoa?), topped by the
unsweetened whipped cream I always serve at dinner parties and guests love
it.
Day 2
Had a proper sleep in a bed last night after being squashed on two
intercontinental and my transatlantic flights. Woke up energized. This
morning, I walked in a direction that lead me to the Quattro Fontane,
Villa Barberini and Piazza Barberini with its graceful fountain still
harboring a pink Easter egg!
The Villa Barberini was a spontaneous find. Its art museum, marked by a
banner on the building, displayed a step-by-step explanation of the
restoration process on a Renaissance painting in addition to a collection
of many religious paintings. In Rome for just 2 days, I savored each
painting and its familiar allegory. Some long-hidden appartementi had been
restored and recently opened. There, I first encounter the Bee. The Bee
appears throughout the villa in statue, wallpaper, décor, etc. The docent
explains that it represents lavoro - work. This family was apparently hard
working. I will think long on the bee later traveling through Turkey and
Crete. Who gives the noble bee much attention today? Who needs honey, now
that we have more sugar than we need?
Used Rick Steves Rome guide to find a place near-by to eat lunch -
Hostaria Romana - with the businessmen, families and scores of other Rick
readers before me. The walls are signed and the waiters are practicing
comedy. The buffet table featured a grand selection of antipasti
artichokes, braised vegetables, olives: many delicacies I arranged
beautifully on my own plate. Went on to enjoy fettuccine al funghi.
Stumbled slowly, heavily, back to the hotel.
I packed ultra-light and it's still about stuff - the pleasure of finding
my inflatable neck pillow to align my aching back and have a delicious
delirious nap before hunting down the archeological museum - National Museum of
Rome. Luckily, the destinations don't close early. Tonight I'll meet
the guy from the Internet (Rick Steves Graffiti Wall) for a drink at the
Hotel Excelsior - a beautiful Westin on Via Veneto.
Day 3
Walking to the Vatican City, I passed
by the Colosseo, Monte Palatino, Circo Massimo, Campo dei Fiori, Roman
citizens shopping and living their Roman lives. God, make me learn Italian
before I come here again. I want to know these people. This morning I left
the hotel at 8am! Lots of Internet availability once you know the signs -
InfoPoint, Western Union, etc.
After the Vatican - didn't go in because I just want to see all of Rome,
walked along the Tiber river and over to the Piazza del Popolo. Sat at a
café there and enjoyed a glass of blood orange juice - sweet, tangy and
sour all at once. Chatted with some German ladies before continuing on to
Villa Borghese and my main destination, the Borghese Gallery. I love
the tree-lined paths, the sun spackled emerald lawns, the statuary.
Each day I meet someone who gives me a nudge or an idea, starting with the
spiritualist visionquest landscaper from Santa Fe, Sudi, with whom I
shared the flight over and lost in Paris. He's in Rome someplace now. I
wonder where... Planning to attend a Baroque music concert at a church
tonight - someone in a crowd handed me a flyer.
